Mirror Image

The richly patterned textiles of India are worked in a variety of embroidery techniques. Many of the stitches used are commonplace all round the world, but the very distinctive technique of mirror work is unique to the Indian subcontinent.
by Annwyn Dean
photos by Ian Cole

Finished size: 23 x 13 cm

The mirror glass used in embroidery, known as shisha or abla, decorates clothing, torans (doorway hangings), household shrines, curtains and rumals (cloth wrappings).

This small panel, influenced by some of the designs of traditional shisha work, explores the technique of attaching the mirror to the fabric.

What you need

  • Soft cotton fabric:
    • Background colour (deep rust red) 30 x 25 cm
    • Colour 2 (green) 18 x 2 cm
    • Colour 3 (light rust) 18 x 3.5 cm
  • Calico for backing, 30 x 25 cm
  • Shisha glass 25 mm diameter x 3
  • 7 beads
  • Iron-on Vilene (medium weight) 13 x 23 cm
  • DMC cotton perle No.5 in hot spicy colours
  • Embroidery frame
  • Sewing thread to match the appliqué fabrics

What you do

  1. Lay the background fabric on top of the calico and place the two pieces into the embroidery frame (see Back to Basics) and pull tight. The calico will support the weight of the shisha. Stitch through both fabrics.
    shisha panel
  2. Referring to the stitch key and stitches used, work the panel, beginning at the top and working down. Remember that much of the charm of these ethnic pieces lies in their boldness and a slight unevenness.
  3. To work the appliqué:
    • Fold under 0.5 cm along one long edge of the 18 x 2 cm strip of green cotton and position on the background fabric with the folded-under edge at the bottom. Stab-stitch the strip along its bottom edge to hold it in place.
    • Fold under 0.5 cm along one long edge of the 18 x 3.5 cm strip of the light rust fabric and position on the green strip 0.75 cm above the bottom edge of the green cotton and stab-stitch in place. Make vertical cuts every 3 cm to within 0.5 cm of the stab-stitch line. Fold these edges under to form triangles and stab-stitch down.

To finish

  1. When stitching is complete, trim the panel to 14 x 24 cm approximately. Turn under about 1 cm of fabric all round and iron in place. Position the iron-on Vilene on the back and iron in place.
  2. Thread several lengths of cotton perle (doubled) into a needle (check that the needle will pass through the hole in the bead) and thread this through a bead to make a small tassel. Repeat with the other beads and, using the sewing thread, stitch the tassels along the lower edge of the panel.

Shisha examples

shisha example
A typical example of shisha work uses medium-sized mirror glass

shisha example
shisha example

Above: These samples feature shisha in a variety of sizes

shisha example
Tiny shisha are used on this piece of embroidery, which measures just 8 cm square

Shisha facts

Shisha is the Indian word for mirror.

Shisha glass is available in a variety of shapes including round (the most common type), square and triangular. Sizes vary from large to tiny.

There are no holes in the mirror glass so it has to be held in place with a framework of stitches over which decorative stitches are worked.

There are several types of shisha available:

  • Handblown glass shisha is also known as antique shisha or mica. As it is hand cut, the sizes are more variable and the shape can be slightly irregular.
  • Machine-cut glass is known in India as embroidery glass.
  • Sequin shisha are in fact large flat sequins. They are thin and flat and have a hole at one side, but this is covered with the stitching.

You can buy embroidered shisha rings in a range of colours, shapes and sizes. Place the ring over your chosen shisha (they work well with sequin shisha) and slipstitch in place around the edge of the ring.

The decorative ring around the mirror glass can be worked in various stitches, including shisha stitch, herringbone or cretan stitch.

Supplier

Shisha glass, deep-dyed fabrics, beads, bells, shells and all sorts of unusual things were available at the time of writing from:

Silken Strands, 20 Y Rhos ,Bangor, Gwynedd LL57 2LT phone 01248 362361; www.silkenstrands.co.uk.

Further reading

Available at the time of writing from the Embroiderers' Guild Bookshop

Embroidery from India and Pakistan by Sheila Paine. Lavishly illustrated with colour photographs throughout, this lovely book focuses on more than 20 textiles from the collection of the British Museum. Richly decorated costumes and household items, featuring shisha work and many other techniques, will provide inspiration for using the glorious colours and patterns in your own designs. Published by the British Museum Press ISBN 07141 2744 2 (paperback)

books on Indian textiles

The Techniques of Indian Embroidery by Anne Morrell. You will find all of the rich traditions, stitches and techniques of Indian embroidery in this fascinating book. Quilting, darning, pattern darning, whitework,mirror work, metal work, embroidery with a hook, appliqué and patchwork are all covered in detail. The wealth of information and abundance of clear photographs (in colour and black and white) make this book a must for anyone interested in exploring the textiles of India. Published by Interweave Press. ISBN 1 883010 08 (paperback)

cover of issue 52